Mostar is a historic city in Herzegovina, famous around the world for its Old Bridge or Stari Most. I first saw a photo of Stari Most as a child. One of my favourite hobbies then was burying myself in geographic encyclopedias, studying the photos and dreaming what it would be like to see those places in person. The bridge, with its elegant curves and dramatic setting, captivated me. Decades later, the opportunity to visit this famous bridge arose when I received an invitation from Meet Bosnia, a tour operator, to experience Bosnia and Herzegovina with them. I decided to base myself in Sarajevo and see different parts of the country on day trips. Excited about the prospect, I planned the day trip to Mostar as the first.
Stari Most, Mostar (image by G.Teoman/Unsplash)
Mostar (map) is an easy day trip from Sarajevo – the drive there takes about two hours – but I soon learned that it’s also an easy day trip from popular Croatian destinations such as Split (2+ hours) and Dubrovnik (2.5 hours). Doing this guided day tour to Mostar from Sarajevo allowed me to sit back and enjoy the incredible scenery whilst learning about the country’s history and geography. Bosnia and Herzegovina is a union of two geographic and cultural regions: Bosnia to the north, lush and forested; and Herzegovina to the south, a more arid, stony terrain with a Mediterranean climate. This day trip not only included time in Mostar but also visits to other beautiful natural and historical highlights in Herzegovina.
Kravice Falls, one of the attractions we visited on this Mostar day trip
We left Sarajevo and drove along the A1 highway in a southwesterly direction. The route took us through the forested mountains of Bosnia. As we passed through tunnels carved into the towering mountains, I noticed the landscape subtly shift. The thick greenery of Bosnia gave way to the rugged cliffs and shrubby mountains of Herzegovina.
The forested mountain slopes of Bosnia.
Neretva Canyon
We soon found ourselves in the Neretva Canyon – a stunning natural corridor where jade-green waters slice through craggy mountains. I stared in quiet awe as we drove through this majestic canyon, through numerous tunnels that opened up to magnificent vistas.
The spectacular drive through the Neretva Canyon.
Our guide stopped at a quiet spot where we got to take in the view and serenity of the place. The jade colour of the water was absolutely mesmerising!
Jade-green water of the Neretva River.
Počitelj
We passed Mostar (the plan was to save the best for last) and continued to Počitelj. This Ottoman-era (14th/15th century) village, nowadays an open-air museum, clings precariously to the mountain slopes, with its stone towers and impressive fortress watching over the Neretva River.
Počitelj
From the village square, various stone paths and steps wind up the slopes. As we climbed up the uneven steps, we passed rustic stone houses and the beautiful domes of the madrasa and mosque.
Počitelj
It had rained shortly before, making the stone steps slippery, so we decided not to continue up to the fortress.
Kravice Waterfalls
Our next stop was the Kravice Waterfalls, a series of cascades nestled in a lush, green bowl. From the entrance at the top, we walked down the hill past flowering bushes and gurgling streams to the base of the falls. The sound of the falls and the cool mist they generated made for a wonderfully soothing experience.
Kravice falls
At the riverbank were several restaurants. We found a shady spot at the water’s edge and sat down to a delicious lunch, with the sound of rushing water in the background and a postcard view right in front of us.
A gorgeous lunch spot.
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Blagaj Tekke
From the Kravice Falls, we drove back in the direction of Mostar. At the outskirts of the town, we turned right for our visit to Blagaj Tekke. This serene 16th century Dervish monastery is a protected heritage site. Built at the base of a dramatic rock face, it sits right beside the emerald-coloured spring of the Buna River – a place that felt almost surreal in its stillness.
Blagaj Dervish Monastery in Herzegovina
We first toured the monastery before continuing to the Buna River spring. Along the way, we passed the little restaurants at the river’s edge and got as close to the spring as we could. Said to be one of the largest springs in Europe, the water was crystal clear and icy cold. The view across the water to the monastery, perched above the spring, looked like something out of a fairytale.
Resturants at the Buna River 
Inside the monastery 
Blagaj Tekke with the spring of the Buna River
Mostar
Mostar was named after the mostari or bridge-keepers who resided at and guarded the bridge during the Ottoman period. Previously a wooden bridge, the Stari Most was rebuilt in stone in 1566. By this time, Mostar was an important trading and administrative centre with large Christian and Muslim communities. Nowadays, Mostar is most famous for its Stari Most or Old Bridge. In the summer, competitions are held whereby competitors dive from the bridge into the Neretva River below.
Our luck with the weather held for most of the day, but as we approached Mostar, the skies finally gave in. Rain came down in sheets! My excitement turned to disappointment. Prior to our arrival, my guide had promised to take me to some of his favourite photo spots, such as the riverbank and the Koski-Mehmed Pasha Mosque (famous for the view from its minaret).
I stepped out of the van into the pouring rain. The cobblestone roads had turned into gushing streams and people huddled under every roof they could find. Still, nothing could stop me from crossing that bridge.
Mostar in the rain
Stari Most
Armed with an umbrella and a good deal of determination, I wandered through the slick cobblestone alleys of Mostar’s old town towards the famous Stari Most. Commissioned by the Ottoman King, Suleiman the Magnificent, in 1557, the bridge crosses the Neretva River and connects two parts of the old town. It was destroyed during the Bosnian War but was lovingly rebuilt and reopened in 2004. This is what the view would’ve looked like from the minaret of the Koski-Mehmed Pasha Mosque had it not been raining.
Stari Most (image by Ramirez/Wikimedia Commons).
My guide led me down to the beach at the river as promised for a view of the bridge:
View of the Old Bridge of Mostar from the beach.
From there, I made my way to the bridge and unsurprisingly found myself alone. The rain had cleared the crowds, and for a brief, magical moment, I had the entire bridge to myself. I couldn’t help but smile and relish the moment. It’s these little moments that make travel so special and meaningful.
I had the bridge all to myself!
I thought of the first time I laid my eyes on a photo of the bridge as a kid and now, decades later, here I was, in the rain and alone on the Stari Most! My guide taught me a safe way to walk across the bridge – due to its hump-back design, it has a slight ascent and descent, made more treacherous by the rain.
Mostar and its famous bridge
We didn’t get to see much else of Mostar because of the incessant rain. As we made the decision to head back, I looked back at the bridge, glistening in the downpour, and made myself a quiet promise: next time, I’ll return by train and stay the night in Mostar. I’ve heard the rail journey from Sarajevo to Mostar is among the most scenic in the country – and now, I have every reason to go back!
Konjic
We had one more stop as we made our way back to Sarajevo: Konjic. By this time, the rain had stopped and we paused to admire its elegant 17th-century Ottoman bridge. A prime example of Ottoman-era bridge architecture, the Old Bridge of Konjic was partially destroyed during WWII but was restored to its original appearance in 2009.
Old Bridge of Konjic
The Neretva Canyon impressed us yet again as we drove back to Sarajevo. Mist now nestled like a ribbon in the mountains, creating a simply enchanting sight.
Neretva Canyon
This day trip to Mostar from Sarajevo was one of the highlights of my week in Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you’re in the surrounding region such as the Dalmatian coast of Croatia, I absolutely recommend visiting Mostar and the nearby attractions. You’ll get to experience a different country and culture, and learn a bit about the complex history of the Balkans. Check out this Mostar day trip from Dubrovnik or Split.
Note: my one-week Bosnia and Herzegovina itinerary was made possible by Meet Bosnia Tours. As always, all opinions above are mine.