Many years earlier, I remained in St Moritz on a work trip. To get there, I took the narrow-gauge Bernina Express from Chur. Beautiful views all the way, however that’s nothing special in Switzerland; nearly all over is beautiful in this little country. (And yes, it is little– about half the size of Scotland.)
What I could not see from the train, nevertheless, was the engineering marvel that is the Landwasser Viaduct. So when I was in Liechtenstein recently, and realised it was just a one-hour drive away, well … why not?
Driving from Vaduz through Chur, I reach the carpark at the start of the trails. From there, you can stroll in different directions to see the viaduct from numerous angles. I pick the method to the Landwasserviaduktaussichtspunkt (Landwasser Viaduct perspective), a 15-minute walk.
It’s a good roam in the early fall landscape …
… but I’m here for the viaduct– and the train. Before I know it, I hear a roar above me. I search for and to the left, and quickly find a red train crossing a train bridge up high. Is this the well known Landwasser Viaduct currently?
It is not. This is the Schmittnertobel Viaduct, not as popular, but a similarly striking high bridge along the very same line, spanning a deep canyon. Schmittnerobel is often overlooked, however train lovers adore it. Get up close, and you’ll have comparable image opportunities and barely another soul about.
Then, a couple of hundred metres on, I pertain to a clearing with a kiosk and a picnic area to the side– and the huge Landwasser Viaduct in front.
All fired up, ready for your barbecue What Makes the Landwasser Viaduct So Unique?
This 65-metre-high train bridge covers across 136 metres of the Landwassertal (Landwasser Valley), on 6 balanced limestone arches.
It is a significant accomplishment of engineering, particularly considering it was developed 123 years ago, without modern-day scaffolding. And today, more than a century later, it is still in active use. Preserved legacy in movement.
What sets Landwasser apart from the other tall viaducts along the line, is the method it loops dramatically into a tunnel carved directly into the sheer cliff face. That is one jaw-dropping visual seen from down in the valley here.
The stone structure, with the elegant curve and bold cliffside tunnel, becomes part of the Rhaetian Train. It is so amazing it was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 2008.
Graubünden
But beyond this architectural work of art lies an area abundant in culture, language, and surprise thrills waiting to be explored.
The Landwasser Viaduct is more than a bridge, you see. It’s a sign of alpine heritage, a living piece of history, and a window into the multilingual soul of Switzerland. Seeing the red Rhaetian Railway train sweep throughout this victory of style, against a background of towering peaks and ancient language, well, it’s just memorable.
At the picnic area by the perspective, I notice the composing on the tent. It remains in Rhaeto-Romansch! Rarely you see that.
Parc Ela– iql pi grond parc natural dalla Svizra= Parc Ela– the biggest natural park in Switzerland
Rhaeto-Romansch
Odd name, no?
Rhaetian describes a group of Alpine tribes that resided in the border area in between Italy, Austria and Switzerland in ancient times. This was the Roman province of Raetia, and the inhabitants spoke the Rhaetic language.
Modern Rhaeto-Romansch on the other hand, progressed from Latin, the language of the dominating Roman soldiers and inhabitants, and maintained through the millennia through education, signs, literature, and media.
So if the languages are not related, why such comparable names? Well, in both cases, Rhaeto originates from the region Raetia. There is a geographical and historical connection, but not a linguistic one.
Today, ca 45,000 people speak Rhaeto-Romansch, and they live here in Graubünden (Grisons), one of the 26 cantons (provinces) that make up the Swiss confederation. That means only 0.5% of the population speaks Rhaeto-Romansh, however it is still one of the 4 main languages of Switzerland.
It’s more than simply a language, this. Rhaeto-Romansch is a living link to the area’s history, used in standard festivals, in regional governance, and even Swiss federal interaction. Every person has the right to have public communication in their own language. That appertains democracy for ya.
Here in Graubünden, you might hear locals switch perfectly between Rhaeto-Romansh, German, Italian, and even French, like an echo of Switzerland’s special multicultural material. Switzerland’s name in the 4 languages:
- Rhaeto-Romansch: Svizra
- Italian: Svizzera
- French: La Suisse
- German: Pass Away Schweiz
- And bonus, Swiss German: Schwiiz
Looks sophisticated, doesn’t it– all in proportion and curvy.
Rhaetian Railway practicals
Arriving
- By train: Take the Rhaetian Train to the closest station, Filisur. From there, a footpath results in the Landwasser Viewpoint (ca 25 minutes). The path is accessible in most seasons. Wonderful views of trains crossing the viaduct.
- By vehicle: A 45-minute drive from Chur via A13 and Route 3. There’s a car park at Filisur train station, and one near the trailhead which I used. From there, the perspective Landwasserviaduktaussichtspunkt is a short walk away. (Likewise, don’t you just love German intensified words …)
Ways to experience the Landwasser Viaduct
On it: Take the Glacier Express or the Bernina Express– renowned scenic trains that cross the viaduct gradually, with sensational alpine views any which way you turn.
Below it: Hike to the perspective for an ideal, elevated angle of the viaduct. Best image light in the morning or late afternoon.
Bahnmuseum Albula: The train museum in Bergün, ca 10 minutes away by cars and truck (or train), has interactive exhibitions on the history and building and construction of the Albula line, consisting of models of the viaducts and tunnels.
Tips
- Spring and autumn is terrific for treking and photography, and winter season provides you that snowy magic. Trains run year-round, twice every hour.
- Don’t miss out on the Schmittnertobel Viaduct.
- Keep in mind that mountain weather modifications quick. Use excellent shoes and layers of clothing.
Rhaetian Train in the Albula/Bernina Landscapes is a UNESCO World Heritage website.
Here are more UNESCO World Heritage sites we have actually gone to worldwide.