You’ve definitely seen the mountains of Huaraz before — even if you don’t realise it. Mount Artesonraju is actually what the iconic logo of Paramount Pictures is based on, so you’ve surely seen it countless times… but the real thing is even more dramatic. The jagged crests of the mountains surrounding this hiking Mecca easily deserve similar worldwide fame.
The beauty of visiting Huaraz is that you can see such sublime beauty as glaciers, soaring 6000m peaks and glittering azure lakes as day trips. It combines the beauty of the Himalayas with the accessibility of the English Lake District.
In the vertical world of the Andes, altitude must be respected. No matter your fitness, when you arrive at altitude from the coast, you will be red faced, puffing, and moving at a snail’s pace as the acclimatised locals skip past you.
If you are coming to Huaraz, chances are that you want to hike. To make the most of your Peru trip, and arguably South America’s trekking capital, following this guide by altitude will ensure maximum comfort and the most enjoyable experience.
Watch the altitude climb!
- Epic Huaraz hikes: Hike to the Laguna 69, a challenging 6–7 hour round trip to one of the most iconic turquoise lakes in the Andes, and discoverLaguna Parón, the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca. If you’re chasing higher altitudes, hike the Glacial Pastouri offers dramatic glacier views at nearly 5,000 meters with only a short hike from the parking area.
- Gear & essentials: Huaraz’s high altitudes, unpredictable weather, and rugged terrain mean it’s important to gear up. Be sure to bring layered clothes, sun protection, and a rain jacket (even during dry season). If you’re doing day hikes, bring a comfortable daypack. For multi-day treks, get a reliable hiking backpack such as an Osprey Atmos AG LT 65 or Gregory Paragon 60. Osprey Farpoint is a popular choice for combining travel features with hiking comfort.
- Travel tips: Give yourself at least 1 to 2 days in the city to acclimatize before attempting the bigger hikes. Most trailheads are easily reached by collectivos, taxis, or organized 4×4 tours, so getting around is fairly straightforward. At high altitudes, take it slow—stay hydrated and pace yourself to avoid altitude sickness.
When to visit
Huaraz is one of the more seasonal destinations for backpackers in South America. For the best experience – clear blue skies and temperatures in the low 20s – visit during the dry season of May to September.
The first rains fall in October, but until December it is doable if you steel yourself for the odd shower and mist. From December to April, it will be wet and rainy and few tour operators will be open. If you are intrepid and appropriately geared, it is still possible to visit.
Where to stay
My time in Huaraz was significantly enhanced by my stay at Krusty Hostel. This offers both comfortable dorms and private rooms. Its rooftop terrace is complete with sweeping views of snowy mountain peaks and packs a killer free breakfast.
What made the stay so convenient was that it had a built in tour agency. The prices were competitive with those of other operators, and all you had to do was ask at reception rather than haggling with an agency of uncertain repute. I was paying $11 for day long excursion to the most incredible mountain scenery I’ve ever seen, what a bargain!
Getting to Huaraz
If you are visiting Huaraz, you will likely come from either Lima or Trujillo. Lima serves those journeying Northwards while Trujillo is for those venturing South.
Both have comfortable cama (bed-like seat) options. Expect to pay 85 soles (24USD) for either route. The journey from either takes 8-9 hours, and I would recommend getting a night bus, that way you can get some sleep and avoid paying for accommodation.
In Lima, leave well in advance of your trip because the traffic is no joke. This scuppered my first attempt to visit! The terminal in Huaraz is a 15 minute walk from the plaza, taxis are also available.
6-Day itinerary in Huaraz: From Easy to Difficult
From relaxed city exploration to demanding multi-day treks, here is how to get the most out of your stay in Huaraz — while gently upping the challenge level.
Day 1 – chill at altitude in Huaraz city
The first thing that you will notice about Huaraz is that it is very high up, 3052m to be precise. What that means for you is breathlessness and difficulty walking at a normal pace, so before tackling the mountains, let’s start slow and acclimatise by exploring the city.
Huaraz City was razed to the ground in the devastating 1970 Ancash earthquake, so do not expect it to compete with Rome or Venice for good looks. It is, however, an interesting place, and that goes a long way.
Regional museum of Ancash
This little gem houses artefacts from the civilisations who seemingly impossibly thrived in this crazy mountain environment. Gold, textiles and organic materials from the Wari, Chavin and Chimu cultures are neatly arranged, but for me the highlight was the outdoor stone garden.
This has 120 ancient stone carvings, I would not miss an opportunity to stare into the face of a long vanished Andean chieftain or god.
Mirador de Retaqenua
Mirador de Retaqenua is a viewpoint, located a 45 minute walk away from the plaza gives stunning views over the city and its soaring mountain backdrop. It is uphill without being too difficult to reach, but I would recommend skipping it if you are really struggling with altitude sickness.
Monumento Nacional Wilkahuain
I was surprised by the condition of this thousand year old ruin, which was believed to have once been full of mummy bundles.
The Wari who built it were from Ayacucho, far to the South. Having arrived in Huaraz, they adopted the architectural style of the local Chavin, whose influence can be detected in this 3 story structure. I found that the hikes felt more meaningful when I imagined those who trod these paths thousands of years before. A direct taxi ride will set you back 25 soles.
Try some craft brews
Huaraz is a great place to relax, beer in hand and soak up backpackers noisily telling of their exploits in the mountains. Head to Parque del Periodista for some craft brews. I particularly enjoyed Los 13 Búhos for its pool table and ale.
Eat popcorn in the plaza
Andeans were munching popcorn thousands of years before the first Europeans arrived. They certainly have the technique down to a tee. Sit on a bench in the town plaza, warm popcorn in hand and drink in the mountain air. Expect to pay 1 sol, about 0USD.
(iStock/Rocio Vargas Aguilar)
Day 2 – hike to Laguna Wilcacocha
Provided you don’t feel too rough, it is time for your first acclimatisation hike. This is a 7km point to point walk just 15 minutes from town. It is mostly uphill, but is at a lower altitude than other sites. Take either the Route 10 or E collectivo from behind the Mercado Central. Ask the driver to drop you off at the Santa Cruz Bridge. Expect to pay 2-2.50 soles (or ~1).
This was one of my favourite walks in Huaraz, as I did it just as the wheat fields were being harvested. I loved watching the locals in traditional clothes singing while bringing the crops in. The lake at the top is a bit of a letdown, but the panoramic views of the Cordillera Negra and Blanca were absolutely stunning.
You see the foothills rearing up to the tallest mountains of Peru, a brilliant white against the turquoise sky. I would advise the visitor to steer clear of the geese — being charged by a mother goose was my scariest wildlife encounter on the continent!
Popular Huaraz hikes compared
| Hike | Difficulty | Highlights |
| Laguna Wilcacocha | Easy (3 to 4h round-trip / ~ 3,786 m elevation) |
Views of Cordillera Blanca – great for warming up and acclimatizing |
| Laguna Parón (Mirador Hike) | Easy (1 to 1.5h hike with ~130 m elevation gain) |
Scenic lake, accessible viewpoint – great for chill lake views |
| Pastoruri Glacier | Easy but high altitude (2-mile round-trip with ~5,250 elevation) |
Glacial walking, Puya plants |
| Laguna 69 | Moderate-Challenging (5 to 6h round-trip with ~684 m elevation gain) |
Iconic turquoise lake, rewarding ascent but the hike is physically demanding |
Day 3 – Laguna Parón
With Laguna Wilcacoccha under your belt, you should be ready for a trip to Laguna Parón. While this is at 4,200 metres, the excursion involves very little walking. You simply walk up a small ridge and marvel at my favourite lake in South America. You need to arrange an excursion with a tour operator.
(iStock/EyeEm Mobile GmbH)
The water is a shimmering quilt of deep sapphire ringed by snow-capped peaks, yet all crowned by the spire of Artesonraju, famous for being the Paramount Pictures logo. It could be a film set, given just how unworldly the beauty is. I almost missed the bus back, scrambling around the lakeshore for more vistas.
Day 4 – Chavin de Huantar
This archeological site is one of the most important on the continent. It is the 3000-year-old remnant of the first civilisation in the Andes. I learnt so much about the age and development of Andean civilisation, which enhanced my experience of many other sites later on my trip.
The Chavin participated in a secretive cult based on consumption of the hallucinogenic San Pedro cactus and Ayahuasc. Priests on these substances could commune with the gods or transform into jaguars.
Don’t believe me? The statues on the temple show the contorted face and running nose characteristic of using these local drugs as the priest shapeshifts. The temple features mirrors and acoustic systems to heighten the trip.
Chavin de Huantar temple complex 
The last original nailed head, a zoomorphic stone carving
Inside the temple is the 4m tall edifice called El Lanzon. This delicately carved monolith is believed to be the main god at Chavin. Imagine the drugged priests gazing at this darkened god in wonder.
The site also has a brilliant, modern museum telling the story of Chavin with a wealth of artefacts recovered from the ruins. I spent so long here I missed my last bus home, and ended up hitchhiking back to Huaraz with a Peruvian soap opera actor. You never know what each day will hold in Huaraz!
Day 5 – Glacial Pastouri
Congratulations, you are acclimatised enough to break 5000m of altitude.
Be warned, this is a lung-busting walk and it is freezing cold. However, how often will you get to see a glacier in the tropics? While Pastouri has suffered from climate change and is in retreat, seeing icicles the height of people and a creaking river of ice for the first time made it a very memorable day.
Pastoruri Glacier in Peru’s Huascarán National Park
Unexpectedly too, the road up to the glacier is lined with the rare Puya Raimondii plants. These extraordinary plants look like something out of Avatar — vast spiky balls of protruding spears with a 10m high spike behind it. My bus stopped to let us admire these wondrous plants.
Day 6 – Laguna 69
Hiking time. By now, you will be comfortable at high altitude and will be sufficiently prepared to tackle this famous hike. This is no stroll in the park. You will ascend 800m in just 1.5km, so be prepared to rest often and bring lots of snacks. Go to bed early for the 5 am start.
The bus will drop you at the shore of a brilliant blue lake which I would visit without any of the other bits! The path upwards is well maintained and clearly marked.
Laguna 69 lake, inside the Huascarán National Park 
Glaciers from the surrounding Cordillera Blanca in Laguna 69 (iStock/Clara Murcia)
I didn’t expect that the surroundings would be so beautiful — as you climb higher, new ranges of cathedral-like mountains come into view, with glacial streams and sky blue lupins in the foreground.
At the summit, you will reach Laguna 69, a sheet of the deepest sapphire surrounded by glaciers and towering peaks. An icy rivulet trickles from the glaciers into the lake, giving the mother of all photo ops.
Decision time: Huayhuash vs Santa Cruz
At this point, choose either to continue with the day trips — more below — or rest in preparation for a multi-day hike.
Huayhuash or Santa Cruz, which should you do?
Huayhuash is one of the most famous mountain hikes in the world. The snaking walk threads through isolated Andean villages beneath some of the most staggering views in the world. The catch, it is 8-11 days long and not for the faint hearted.
Santa Cruz is 4 days long and is doable for anyone with moderate fitness. It is also one of the classic Andean hikes for a reason — the wild chaos of the Cordillera Blanca is utterly sublime.
Personally, I opted for the Santa Cruz trek. This is because I had limited time and money but still wanted the experience of sleeping beneath the stars and hiking through wilderness for days on end. This was fulfilled and more.
Santa Cruz trek
I was lucky enough to have a fantastic group, including someone from my university college I had no idea was in Peru! Other than an intense second day, the walking was not overwhelmingly hard at all. The highlight was undoubtedly this second day, which happened to be my birthday. We ascended to a pass at 4800m.
The ridge led directly to the icecap of Mt Chopicalqui, its jagged fangs seemed to pierce the sky itself, while on both sides cobalt blue lakes shone while rolling crests of mountains ebbed into the horizon. We even saw a condor fly overhead! To boot, a 70 year old widower in my group met another 70 year old widower with whom she developed an intense friendship. They walked the Cordillera Huayhuash together afterwards. In short, I could not recommend Santa Cruz enough.
However, I still dream of returning to Huaraz because I did not do the Huayhuash Trek.
The Huayhuash Trek is 120km long, and takes between 8-12 days for the classic circuit. There is a 5 day option though it skips many of the most famous panoramic views. In each of those 8-12 days, you will ascend to a mountain pass of at least 4600m, the highest point being a mind blowing 5050m.
So what do you get for this physical sacrifice?
Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit
Views that are said to be the best on the planet. You will feel awed by the untamed mountains, untouched lakes and the utter solitude of the remote valleys. A further joy is to meet communities mostly isolated from the wider world, play football with friendly local children at camp and observe the eternal rhythms of Andean farming life.
The Mirador de Tres Lagunas is said to be one of the most beautiful views in the world, but each day’s vistas are worthy of a laptop screensaver. The first chance I get, I will be on the plane to tackle this behemoth of a trek.
For both, bring waterproofs, even in the dry season. These are wild environments and are prone to sudden showers. I also had no idea how cold it got at night and I had nothing between me and the Baltic -9 temperature but some thin pyjamas. Bring gloves and thermals.
The three stunning lakes of the Cordillera Huayhuash at the Mirador de Tres Lagunas (iStock/maphke)
Other day trips around Huaraz
Laguna 513
I don’t know what it is with only naming such stunning lakes with numbers, when if this was in Britain, we would honour it with the most singsong name possible. It only demonstrates Peru’s embarrassment of natural riches that this topaz lake does not even have a proper name. The closest comparison that 513 has is to Laguna 69.
It also sits at the skirts of a looming mountain, and a glimmering icecap contrasts with the deep shades of blue. It is, however, an easier trek up and does not attract the same crowds as Laguna 69. Book with a tour operator in Huaraz (50-70 soles/14–20USD).
Climb Nevado San Mateo
Fancy conquering a 5000m plus mountain summit? Huaraz has that in its locker too. Strap on some crampons and head up into the High Sierra. Groups are of 3, and experienced guides talk you through navigating the treacherous ice.
The beauty of this excursion is that it is only a day trip, yet still offers the sense of triumph that comes from climbing a mountain, plus otherworldly views of glaciers and alpine lakes. The chance to use crampons and options to ice climb will be a new experience for many travellers.
Plan Your excursion with viator
Laguna Churup
This is a drop dead gorgeous lake set in a natural amphitheatre of frosty peaks.
I did not expect for my head for heights to be tested so much! The path up is very steep and even relies on cables to drag tired bodies up the slope. You can save some soles by visiting independently, owing to being just 45 minutes by collectivo from Huaraz.
Head over to the crossroads of Avenue Agustin Gamarra and Avenue Antonio Raymondi and look for a collectivo to Pitek, where the trailhead is.
Laguna Hualcacocha
I had not heard of this beguiling lake until I arrived in Huaraz. Reportedly, tours only began running to it in 2022, and it is still under visited relative to its beauty. Experience similar blues and dramatic mountain peaks to Laguna 69 without many tourists milling around. Expect to pay 70 soles with a tour operator to visit.
Laguna Llanganuco
This greenish hued lake virtually glows in the sun while the highest mountain in Peru, Huascaran looms on the horizon. The highlight of visiting this lake is the chance to take a boat out onto the water. The views on the lake are doubly enthralling as sheer cliffs plunge into the water. Book with a tour operator in Huaraz (50-60 soles).