Join me on a journey through Ribera del Duero’s history, stunning landscapes, and exquisite wines. Experience the magic!
My passions are history, dining, and wine; the Ribera del Duero Wine Route in northwestern Spain, two hours northwest of Madrid, is all that and more.
We picked up our rental car in Madrid. We started on a journey following the Duero River through a lovely landscape dotted with quaint Medieval villages, cathedrals, and castles set amidst vineyards and undulating hills.
Enjoy an electric bike ride through the vineyards and grounds of Finca Villacreces. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
What’s in This Article:
Toggle
The Wines of Ribera del Duero
Perched on a high plateau and surrounded by mountains, Ribera del Duero has a dramatic microclimate. Days are hot, but nights can drop as much as 50 degrees in 24 hours. Add in the region’s harsh, acidic terroir, and you get one of Spain’s top red wine regions. Over 55,000 acres of grapes grow here—95% tempranillo, also called Tinto Fino or Tinta del País.
While red is the star, small plots of white grapes are also grown. Wines like Albillo Mayor stand out, offering rich yellow hues and notes of honey and fennel.
Ribera’s wine story has deep roots. In the 12th century, Benedictine monks from France brought vine cuttings from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Their influence adds complexity to the tempranillo grown here today.
Wine here is labeled by aging. A winemaker once explained it to me in a way that made it all click:
-
Cosecha wines are young, with little or no barrel time.
-
Crianza wines age for 24 months, at least 12 in oak.
-
Reserva wines rest for 36 months, again with at least 12 in barrels.
-
Gran Reserva is the pinnacle, aged at least five years, two of those in oak.
That knowledge helped me truly understand—and savor—what was in my glass.
Explore restaurants and wineries like El Lagas de Isilla in Aranda de Duero. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
Tempranillo and Rioja
Tempranillo wine grapes from Ribera are often compared to Rioja, a wine made in Rioja, Spain’s most famous wine region, with over 500 wineries. Though tempranillo and sometimes garnacha, mazuelo, and graciano grapes are used in making Riojas wines, the difference comes from the terroir of the two regions. Tempranillo grapes grown in Ribera are smaller in size and have thicker skins, and the wines are deep red and full-bodied with flavors of cherry, fig, cedar, and tobacco. Those of Rioja are lighter in color and have a fruitier taste.
Wine cellar vents are common along the Ribera del Duero Wine Route. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
Winemaking History of Ribera del Duero
It’s said that many of the vines grown in the vineyard of the Ribera Wine Region come from pinot noir cuttings planted at local monasteries by Cistercian monks as they traveled to Santiago de Compostela along the St. James Way, a noted Medieval pilgrimage followed by 347,585 people in 2019. And though that number sounds high, consider that in Medieval times, half a million pilgrims walked the many routes to the 11th-century Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and the Tomb of the Apostle.
But the story stretches back even further. Nearly 4,000 years ago, the Phoenicians planted the first vineyards here. Later, the Romans ruled parts of Spain until the late 400s. Their legacy lives on in Ribera. In Baños de Valdearados, archaeologists uncovered a 4th-century mosaic depicting Bacchus, the Roman god of wine, right in the heart of the region.
The Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela is the ultimate destination on the Way of St. James. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
Wine Growing Regions of Ribera del Duero
The Ribera wine region stretches along the Duero River—Spain’s third longest—also known as the Douro in Portugal. It winds through four provinces in Castilla y León: Valladolid, Burgos, Soria, and Segovia. This area, known as the land of castles and lions, has a long winemaking history.
For years, that legacy was overshadowed by regions like Rioja and La Mancha. But in 1982, Ribera earned Spain’s top wine classification: Denomination of Origin (DO). At the time, there were only a handful of wineries. Today, there are more than 300.
One of the many excellent Ribera del Duero Wine Trail wineries, Bodegas Protos, offers tours and tastings. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
A Historic, Luxury Stay
After departing Madrid, we drove about 100 miles northwest to the tiny village of San Bernardo and checked into Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena.
Once a Cistercian monastery, it served that role from 1143 to 1931. Today, it’s part of the Castilla Termal Hoteles collection of 5-star luxury properties housed in historic buildings.
History is everywhere here. Stone passageways stretch beneath domed ceilings. Moorish-style arches frame a quiet courtyard where guests sip wine beneath bright red umbrellas. Beyond that, vineyards roll across the hills. The wine cellar feels like a step back in time as you descend a worn stone staircase. It’s the perfect spot to gather, relax, and enjoy a glass of local wine.
At Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena, they grow many vegetables featured on the menu, including artichokes like these. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
Dining
The seasonal menu in Converso, the hotel’s award-winning restaurant, features much of what is grown in the hotel’s garden, a wild riot of vegetables including fennel, artichokes, summer and winter squashes, Padrón peppers, and potatoes. Desserts are sweet and sophisticated, and we shared plates of carrot cake and toffee with its slightly spicy chocolate ganache and a rolled wafer stuffed with pine nuts and cheese cream, served with rosemary sherbet.
Tapas or small plates are a creative way to start a meal or to enjoy with a glass of wine. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
Medicinal Waters
The thermal pools, part of the hotel’s 6,500-square-foot spa, offer a vast expanse of calm aquamarine waters after a long day of exploration. Based in part on the historical practice of the 12th-century Cistercian monks who used deep mineral-medicinal waters, it was rejuvenating to sink into the waters and feel a sense of calm.
Afterward, we walked the ancient hallways, with their artifacts from centuries past, watched the moon rise, casting golden shadows on the hotel’s rooftop, and listened to the sounds of the fountain as we sat outside.
The courtyard at Castilla Terma Monasterio de Valbuena in the Moonlight. Jane Simon Ammeson
Things to Do in Ribera del Duero
Beyond the wineries, this is a fascinating region to explore. With maps, tourist information, and phones, we navigated the country roads, discovering the Ribera region’s history, culture, architecture, gastronomy, dedication to viticulture, and wine-making craftsmanship.
The family-owned Cepa 21 Winery blends tradition and advanced technology to turn out award-winning wines. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
The Golden Mile of the Ribera del Duero
Just outside the small hamlet of Quintanilla de Onésimo, population 1300, we visited Finca Villacreces, a winery located in what is known as the Golden Mile of the Ribera del Duero because of its lushness.
This land has deep roots. Centuries ago, Franciscan hermits came here to reflect and seek penance. Today, its location along the Duero River and ideal terroir make it perfect for winemaking. Tempranillo is the star, known for its dark fruit notes. A small amount of cabernet sauvignon and merlot is also produced here, adding depth to the region’s offerings.
Finca Villacreces is one of approximately 300 wineries along the Ribera Wine Route. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson.
Spanish Cuisine
We hopped on electric bikes from the winery and pedaled through rows of ripening, deep purple grapes. After the ride, we toured the winery, then gathered at a long table beneath the grape arbors.
Lunch was a spread of classic Spanish flavors—paper-thin slices of Iberian ham, wedges of Manchego, Iberico, and Idiazabal cheeses, and thick slices of Tortilla Española. Made with potatoes, onions, eggs, and olive oil, it was simple but always slightly different. Every version we tried during the trip was delicious in its own way.
We sampled a variety of wines, each one impressive. But my favorite was the inky purple Finca Villacreces Ribera del Duero. Aged in oak, it was rich with dark fruit—blueberries and blackberries—and hints of espresso and mocha.
Suckling lamb roasted at high temperatures in a wood-burning oven is one of the Castillian specialties in the Ribera del Duero Wine Region. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
Cepa 21
A sleek, linear structure of polished stone and glass, Cepa 21 overlooked a vineyard that seemed to stretch endlessly across the horizon. It was located in Castrillo de Duero, a third-generation family winery owned by the Moro family.
Like Finca Villacreces, it sat along the Golden Mile of Ribera del Duero. But instead of electric bikes, we took a quiet stroll through the vines before heading into the aging room—a vast space that held up to 2,000 barrels.
Then came the tasting. We learned about the family’s winemaking legacy, including the story of José Moro, president of Cepa 21. We sampled their standout wine, Finco Tino—a local expression of tempranillo, bold and fruit-forward with warm, roasted notes.
Cepa 21, located in the small village of Castrillo de Duero, can age up to 2000 wine barrels at a time. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
Peñafiel
Passing by odd little stone structures covering the meadow along the drive up to the Peñafiel Castle, I was told they are vents for the family wine caves below. It’s an interesting custom: Families with their small vineyards store the wine in the coolness below the earth, where they have fireplaces for cooking, tables for eating, and enjoy the fruits of their labors.
From the ramparts of the 600-foot-long, 90-foot-high castle built in the 1400s, we took in a stunning view of Peñafiel’s red-tiled roofs and the fields and forests stretching beyond.
Inside, we explored the Provincial Wine Museum, which traced the region’s winemaking history through the centuries. The exhibits showcased the unique soil that produced such remarkable wines, vintage harvesting tools, and modern, state-of-the-art displays that brought the story to life.
Penafiel Castle. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson.
Bodegas Protos
Across the street stood Bodegas Protos, founded in 1927 by eleven families who came together to support local viticulture. Their goal was simple: they could produce exceptional wines by working as a community, now grown to 250 members.
What began as a modest venture had grown into a significant force in Spanish wine. The winery’s production and tasting rooms were designed by the late Richard Rogers, the award-winning architect behind the Pompidou Centre in Paris, the Lloyd’s Building, and the Millennium Dome in London.
The sleek, modern design featured open spaces and floating floors, softened by locally sourced wood, terracotta tiles, and stone. Even the packing boxes and assembly lines were integrated into the aesthetic.
When we arrived at 11 AM, the long tasting bar, with seats on both sides, was already nearly full. Protos lived up to its reputation as the most visited winery on the route.
The entrance to Bodegas Protos in Penafiel. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
Plaza del Coso
We found a spot at the tasting bar and sampled the wines at Bodegas Protos before heading into the narrow cobblestone streets. The lanes twisted and turned past whitewashed shops and homes, leading us toward the Plaza del Coso. This 600-year-old bullfighting ring sat in the shadow of the ever-present castle above.
The wooden structures surrounding the open arena were said to date back to Medieval times. Their carved balconies, used only on bullfighting days, added a striking detail. Below them, we spotted small hollowed-out niches—once a last resort for anyone quick and slim enough to dodge a charging bull.
Penafiel Castle stands above the Plaza de Cosos. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
Medieval Mill
For lunch, we headed to Molino de Palacios, a former mill on the Duratón River, which flows into the Duero. Built in 1573 on an even older 13th-century mill site, it now houses Restaurante Asador Molino de Palacios, known for its traditional Castilian cuisine.
The house specialty was lechazo—suckling lamb slow-cooked in a wood-burning oven. Owned by two sisters, the restaurant was packed with locals enjoying hearty meals and estate wine produced in vineyards just outside town.
Molino de Palacios, a restaurant in an old mill, serves traditional Castilian cuisine. Photo by Jane Simon Ammeson
Experiencing Spain’s Ribera del Duero Wine Route
As our journey along the Ribera del Duero Wine Route came to a close, I couldn’t help but reflect on our rich tapestry of experiences. This region, steeped in history and characterized by its breathtaking landscapes, offered more than just exceptional wines; it provided a feast for the senses. Every charming village we explored, every majestic cathedral we visited, and every castle guarding the vineyards deepened my appreciation for the intricate connection between culture, cuisine, and the art of winemaking. For those who, like me, are passionate about history, dining, and wine, this part of Spain is an absolute treasure.
Enjoy Other Articles About Spain and Wine
Don’t miss the chance to embark on your own adventure. We invite you to explore Wander With Wonder for more of our favorite wineries and travel tales that will inspire your next journey. Looking for more to do in Spain? Check out our favorite stories of traveling in Spain.
.